Care Sheets at PhelsumaWeb.co.uk
Phelsuma standingi (Standings Day Gecko)
Common Name: Standing’s Day Gecko
Scientific Name: Phelsuma standingi Methuen and Hewitt, 1913
Description:
Standing’s Day Gecko is rather large for a gecko, most individuals average a stocky 20 to 26 cm (8 to 10.25 inches) in total length. Exceptional individuals can reach 30.5 cm (1 foot).
Although not as flashy as the more common Giant Day Gecko (P. madagascariensis grandis), they have a more subtle beauty expressed in intricate markings and unique behavior. The ground color is usually light gray or brown with darker fine reticulations. When in peak coloration during feeding or basking, the head is light green and the tail is light blue. Hatchlings have much brighter coloration with strong green and blue banding on a dark background. The pattern and colors gradually fade as the animals grow.
If inactive, the coloration is often duller, giving them an overall gray appearance. When cool they take on darker colors to help absorb light and heat. Likewise, these geckos will turn pale in response to hot conditions.
Some individuals have an overall light blue or turquoise color.
Distribution:
Limited range within southwest Madagascar.
Natural History:
These diurnal geckos inhabit dry thorn forests. Sexual pairs share the same territory, living on tree trunks. The climate is arid to semi-arid with a significant difference in day and night temperatures. Natural vegetation consists of thorny succulent plants and baobab trees. Standing’s Day Gecko is an opportunistic predator that readily feeds on insects, fruit, nectar and possibly other lizards. They are wary and quickly dart for cover or circle behind branches when alarmed.
Housing in Captivity:
Standing’s Day Gecko is one of the most interesting of the larger Day Geckos and one of the most rewarding to keep. Captive care for this gecko is somewhat different from that of the more commonly available species of Phelsuma and breeding is unlikely if the proper environmental and temperature requirements are not met.
An adult pair can be housed in screen or glass vivaria with dimensions of at least 60 cm (2 ft) high by 40 cm ( 16 in) by 40 cm. These animals are more amicable towards each other than many related species (both male and female Phelsuma can be quite aggressive), although they do not tolerate animals outside of their immediate family group. Established pairs rarely squabble and sometimes share basking spots. I have used 27gallon hexagonal aquariums with great success. Individuals can be housed in slightly smaller quarters. Glass enclosures must have screen tops or ventilation panels in the sides.
Substrate may consist of perlite-free potting soil, orchid bark or newsprint. If newsprint is used, a container of bark or soil should be provided for nesting. Plants should be sturdy enough not to be damaged by climbing geckos. Snake-plant (Sansevieria spp.) and potted pineapples have worked well.
Full-spectrum lighting is recommended. It will help to show off the lizards’ natural colors as well as aid in calcium metabolism. I have used Vitalites mounted directly above screen tops for several years. The tubes should be changed annually. If vitamin D3-calcium supplements such as Rep-Cal or Miner-all I are used, additional UVB seems unnecessary. Use a small to medium spotlight to heat a basking spot. Horizontal perches should be provided under the light. If other heating is required, use an undertank heating pad and make sure that there is adequate substrate to disperse the heat. Do not use hot-rocks as they are unreliable and only heat a small part of the enclosure. Standing’s Day Geckos prefer a daytime temperature around 28 to 30¡C (mid-80’s F) with a hot spot of 35 to 38¡C (95 to 100¡ F). However, to allow the geckos to thermoregulate there should be areas in the vivarium that do not heat up to more than 30¡C (86¡F). Heating should be turned down or off at night to provide a temperature drop to 20¡C (68¡F). This drop is important in triggering reproduction. As these animals have evolved to cope with a fairly dry natural environment, frequent, heavy misting is not as important as with most species of Day Gecko. A moderate misting once daily in the evening or morning is adequate to provide drinking water and enough humidity for proper ecdysis. A water dish is not required.
Housing for juveniles is similar to that for adults, except for enclosure size. 5 or 10 gallon tanks will house one or two juveniles until they are several months old, at which time they should be moved to adult quarters. Separate siblings if aggression is noticed.
Food and Feeding:
Virtually all commonly available insect foods are acceptable fare for these lizards. Crickets, mealworms, waxworms and superworms (Zoophobas) are all readily consumed. Live insects should be offered twice per week. I usually offer 6 crickets, or 3 superworms per gecko per feeding. Waxworms are used every couple of weeks, usually offered in combination with crickets (3 or 4 of each per lizard). All insects should be gut-loaded with fish flakes, greens and fruit or vegetables. Mixing supplements, fish flakes and other dry foods into the waxworm medium will similarly increase nutritional value.
Insects should be dusted with a supplement such as Rep-Cal or Miner-all I every second feeding for reproductively active females. Calcium is also provided in the form of crushed chicken eggshells or by recycling gecko eggshells once they have hatched. Females will usually readily eat their own eggshells after hatching.
Day geckos are also frugivorous. This part of their diet can be easily provided using fruit baby food such as strained apricot, banana, mango or peach offered once per week. Mix calcium supplements in equal parts with Herptivite or other multivitamin into the baby food. Bee pollen can also be added, but it doesn’t seem to be necessary. Nekton Tonic-R can be used in place of Herptivite and Rep-Cal or Miner-all.
These geckos are not overly competitive at feeding times, often simultaneously sharing the same dish of fruit baby food. On one occasion the author observed a male peeling sloughing skin off a female’s back and eating it. The female did not seem to mind, they even appeared to be cooperating, although it’s impossible to determine if the male was motivated by a desire to help his mate or to fill his stomach!
Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed at least 4 to 6 insects every second day. Calcium-dust all insect prey for juveniles until they reach 10 cm (6 inches) in total length and then cut it back to every second feeding. Baby food/supplement mix should be offered once or twice weekly.
Caution should be used when introducing geckos of varying size as Standing’s Day Geckos will eat other smaller geckos.
Health:
Vitamin and mineral supplementation, particularly vitamin D3 and calcium, is a critical aspect of the husbandry of all Day Geckos. Also, like other Day Geckos the skin can be easily torn. This is a gecko to be viewed and admired, not handled. If there is a need to remove your gecko from its enclosure it should be gently coaxed into a suitable container. Never house adult males together.
Breeding:
P. standingi reportedly mates for life! (Henkel & Schmidt, 1995). The author has, however, successfully paired captive-bred females with wild-caught males. Established adult pairs or trios (1 male, 2 females) will tolerate juveniles until they reach sexual maturity (Bartletts, 1995).
If kept as described in this care sheet, Standing’s Day Geckos should begin breeding between mid-February and mid-April (in North America). Egg-laying may continue until September or October.
Courtship consists of side-to-side jerking movements of the head, usually initiated by the male and responded to by the female. The male approaches the female with increasing head movements and, if she is willing, mating follows in the usual gecko fashion. The male grasps loose skin on the neck of the female, places one forelimb on her back and positions his lower body under hers, lifting her tail until the sexual organs are in opposition. Mating can last from 5 to 20 minutes and may occur outside of the egg-laying season.
Eggs are most often laid in pairs that are “glued” to each other, but are not affixed to the laying surface or substrate. Single eggs are sometimes laid. Usually the eggs are buried just under the substrate or are secreted under some cage furniture. They may also be laid wedged between leaves of plants such as Sansevieria.
Incubation takes 55 to 65 days at temperatures varying between 25-26¡C (77-78¡F) at night to 29-31¡C (84-87¡F) during the day. Fluctuating the temperatures daily in this range produces both sexes.
Recommended Reading:
Bartlett, R.D. & P. Bartlett, 1995. Geckos. Hauppage, New York:
Barron’s Educational Series.
Henkel, F.W. & W. Schmidt, 1995. Geckoes. Malabar, Florida: Kreiger
Publishing Company.
McKeown, S. 1993. The General Care and Maintenance of Day Geckos. Lakeside, California: Advanced Vivarium Systems.
Taylor, R. 1995. Keeping and Breeding the Larger Day Geckos, Reptiles Vol.3 No.4. Irvine California: Fancy Publications Inc.
